Scratchings-and-Sniffings

Hidden Fences: Do You Have One For Your Dog? Posted: 11 May 2009 07:29 AM PDT A few years back my son and I moved from a too-big house in Roch, NY to a smaller, ranchstyle home because it was cozier and less expensive. The house had (probably still has) a beautiful backyard with trees and plants and a garden, and plenty of room for Carmie to run around. But, it did not have a fence. At that time Carmie was a young'un and prone to running wild, if she could get free. Oh the many mornings and afternoons we spent chasing her through the neighborhood! It got to the point that we just let her go - because within a half hour, she always came home. To try and alleviate that issue, I decided to have one of those "invisible" dog fences put in. I did not want to spend weeks waiting for the town to approve a chain link fence and I could not afford anything else. Well, to be honest...I was less than happy with the electronic fence we chose. It worked. After a time. But, Carmie was pretty headstrong and she broke through at least twice and it broke my heart to see her cry in pain from the electic shock. Now, there is a new guy in town selling "Hidden Pet Fence of NY" fences that are the same, but different. According to his site, his system is more  humane AND - so it says - HE will come and train the dog for you! (and they have dog doors, too!) A quick look at his FAQs, though, proves that this is the exact same KIND of system we used, back then. (we're in a different house now, with a fence - but, Carmie is gone, as you all know) I also found veterinarian testimonials on the webiste, and a nice partner's page. The vet's page just says the vets on it once owned the other kind of fence, and now they have his. The partner's page has some great links. Especially the one to The Grey Cottage Pet Spa and Boutique - am eager to talk to her. I'm a bit confused. If this is the same thing, why try and convince me it isn't? If it's better, you have to prove it. I like the Mission Statement, but even that doesn't answer the questions - what's different about Hidden Pet Fence NY - and if I was not happy with the other solution (which I wasn't - have vowed to never do that again!) why will I be happy with yours, Mr. Hidden Pet Fence person? Having YOU train my dog is attractive, but...what else is different, if anything? Do any of YOU use a hidden fence product? How have you found it? I admit that it did work, eventually... and in some ways, I approve of the concept - but, when we move, I'm leaning to a wooden, slatted fence. I may contact these folks for their doggie door, though. (have seen their logo in a yard near us and when the dog/puppy is out, he's good as gold)

Never, Ever Think Outside the Box Posted: 08 May 2009 12:29 PM PDT The title of this post is also the title of one of my favorite New Yorker cartoons. And the sentiment expressed is one of the most common problems cat owners face. Feline house soiling is the single biggest behavior topic cat owners want to know about. First of all we should define the term. Basically it means eliminating, both defecating and urinating, in places other than the litter box. We are talking about horizontal surfaces, too. Urinating on vertical surfaces is more often marking behavior and is the subject of another post. There are a number of diseases that can lead to house soiling too and these should be ruled out and treated first.   There are two basic causes of house soiling in cats; aversion and preference. Aversions are associated with issues around the litter box itself or the ability to access the litter box. Preferences develop for a several reasons and may be associated with the original aversion. Cats may chose a place other than the box due to a preference for the surface. They may actually prefer your carpet to the box. They may also like the cleanliness or location and peace and quiet the preferred location provides.   Aversions can come about due to litter box cleanliness, style or size, litter type and litter box location. Significant risk factors include the use of scented litter, urinary tract disease, disruptions in the normal routine of the household that leads to changes in box maintenance. Visitors can disrupt the access a cat has to a litter box and the addition of another cat can do the same thing. Social conflicts between cats can sometimes be very subtle.   Dealing with the problem is two pronged and involves making the preferred sites off limits or unattractive and determining what the ideal litter box configuration involves.    You might want to close off the preferred site. You can also change the surface by putting aluminum foil of double sided tape over the site. You'll have to clean it well with an enzymatic preparation and you may need to have it professionally cleaned. In the case of carpet, it might have to go. You can also try putting the litter box on top of the preferred spot.   Determining the ideal litter box situation involves providing a cafeteria of choices and observing over time what your cat prefers. If you have multiple cats you may determine that individual cats have different preferences and that might be the problem. The cafeteria consists of several different boxes with different litter types and box shapes.   You can try plastic storage containers, too. Vary the depth of the litter material and vary the location of the boxes. Keep the boxes and litter types that work. It may take a few weeks to figure out the ideal situation but it will be worth it. The following list provides general litter box guidelines and is borrowed form a handout developed by the authors of Canine and Feline Behavior. Paying attention to these tips can really help manage and prevent the development of feline house soiling. Litter Box Tips  Provide one litter box for each cat in the household, plus one additional box.  Boxes should be in different locations around the house to provide multiple access points. In multilevel houses boxes should be provided on all levels of the house.  Make boxes easily accessible, especially for young kittens and older or physically disabled cats.  Avoid high traffic areas or very remote locations.  Most cats prefer uncovered boxes.  Boxes need to be large enough for the cat to move around in the box. The box should be at least 1.5 times the length of the cat. Consider a plastic storage box if the conventional box is too small.  Replace the box annually. Plastic boxes can retain odors.  Don't bother the cat when he is doing his business.    Litter  Most cats prefer unscented, clumping (fine, sand like clay) litter. Offer enough litter for digging. it should be at least 1 inch deep.  Some cats may not like plastic liners.   Some cats have unusual litter preferences. Use the cafeteria technique to determine the ideal litter preference for your cat.   Cleaning  Most cats prefer a pristine box. Boxes should be scooped at least once per day.  Boxes should be completely changed with a box cleaning on a regular basis. This can vary from weekly to monthly depending on litter type, cat's hygienic standards and box usage. Dump old litter and wash the box with warm soap and water, rinse thoroughly and refill with clean litter. Avoid using harsh chemicals to clean the box. These can result in aversions. If the box still stinks after you've cleaned it with soap and water, it's time for a new box.

You are subscribed to email updates from Scratchings-and-Sniffings To stop receiving these emails, you may unsubscribe now.	Email delivery powered by Google
Inbox too full? Subscribe to the feed version of Scratchings-and-Sniffings in a feed reader.
If you prefer to unsubscribe via postal mail, write to: Scratchings-and-Sniffings, c/o Google, 20 W Kinzie, Chicago IL USA 60610